Woks: From Soggy Disappointments to Searing Success

My colleague Andi, with a little help from his friends, has written a quite grandly entitled “The Complete Wok Buying & Cooking Guide: From Selection & Seasoning To Stir Fry Mastery”.

Not the pithiest title, this weighty sounding document, is in fact very readable. I’ll get back to that presently.

In the meanwhile, and before I get to that, we had a company BBQ on Saturday just gone. It was a small (and select) number of us, partly because of the time of year, and partly because it was slightly short notice. And the name was, as it turned out, completely misleading, as not so much a hot coal was burned in the production of the food, the weather being rather inclement.  

I chose instead to get food from Cook, who always do an excellent job (and who provided a lot of the food for my birthday party back in May, also excellent).

We started with champagne (or beer) and various colours of wine. This was to wash down the Thai Fishcakes, the Lemon Grass Ginger Chicken bites, and Sensational Sausage Rolls (their name, not mine). We continued with Salmon en Croute, and a Chicken Ham and Leek pie, accompanied by an interesting salad, that was strangely lacking tomatoes. Jeanne (who made said salad and has taken against tomatoes, along with eggs and mushrooms…poor girl), and I had an interesting discussion afterwards as to how this could possibly have happened… It was a complete mystery apparently!

We finished with a choice of Apple Pie or a Salted Caramel Cheesecake.

Anyway, a very good time was had by all, I think.

And you know, the more we do these things, the fonder we get of each other and actually the greater tolerance we have for other’s vicissitudes. As you can see from the photo, vicissitudes were waning as people talked with each other.

If you think herding cats is a challenge, you should try getting this lot in one photo! I achieved 90% success, with only two people missing.

To product.

So, below is the Wok buying guide, and although I’ve hardly done a turn in the kitchen, where a wok was deemed necessary, I do understand what is demanded of them when used in anger. So I’ve been through this article in great depth, modifying and honing it where necessary.

The Complete Wok Buying & Cooking Guide: From Selection & Seasoning To Stir Fry Mastery

Or how to avoid turning your vegetables into soggy disappointments

Now I'll say this straight away - if you think a wok is just a funny-shaped frying pan, then you've rather missed the point. The wok has been the cornerstone of Asian cooking for over 2,000 years, and there's a reason it hasn't changed much in all that time: it works, and it works brilliantly.

This isn't just another pan sitting in your cupboard looking decorative. It's a culinary powerhouse that can achieve that elusive "wok hei" - the breath of the wok - that distinctive smoky flavour you get in proper Chinese restaurants but somehow never manage at home. Well, with the right wok and a bit of knowledge, you can.

Why a Wok Instead of Your Trusty Frying Pan?

The Shape Isn't Just for Show

The wok's conical design is rather clever engineering, actually. That shaped bottom creates different heat zones - intense heat at the centre for proper searing, and gradually cooler areas up the sloped sides for gentle warming. This means you can cook your garlic and ginger in the hot centre whilst your vegetables stay warm but don't overcook on the sides.

The high sloping sides trap heat beautifully, whilst making it easy to keep everything moving. This prevents the steaming effect you get when you overcrowd a flat pan - you know, when your stir-fry turns into a soggy mess instead of the crisp, vibrant dish you were after.

One Pan, Multiple Jobs

A decent wok can replace several pieces of cookware:

• Stir-frying: Obviously, but done properly with real wok hei
• Deep-frying: Uses less oil than traditional pots due to the shape
• Steaming: Pop a rack in and you've got a steamer
• Braising: The shape works brilliantly for slow-cooked dishes
• Smoking: Traditional method for things like tea-smoked duck

The Great Wok Material Debate: What We Actually Stock

Now, you could spend hours reading about every conceivable wok material, but I'm going to focus on what we actually sell and why we chose them.

School of Wok Pre-Seasoned Carbon Steel: The Sensible Choice

Let me start with what I think is the star of entry level range. These are developed by Chef Jeremy Pang, whom you might have spotted on telly - 'Ready Steady Cook' and the like - and who's written a couple of rather good cookbooks.

The genius of these woks is that they're pre-seasoned. Now, if you've ever tried to season a carbon steel pan from scratch, you'll appreciate this. It's a bit of a faff, involves a lot of smoke, and quite often goes wrong. With these, the hard work's done for you.

What makes them good:

• Pre-seasoned surface: Start cooking immediately, no faffing about
• Carbon steel construction: Heats quickly and gets properly hot - crucial for that caramelised flavour
• Flat bottom: Works on modern hobs, including induction
• Bamboo handles: Don't get hot, which is rather useful when you're tossing food about
• Proper sizes: 10.5" (26.5cm) for couples, 12" (30cm) for small families, 16" (40.5cm) for when the in-laws descend

The only thing to remember is hand wash only and dry thoroughly. But then, if you're serious about cooking, you probably do that anyway.

Netherton Foundry: Proper British Iron

Traditional ironwork made in Britain. These represent old-school craftsmanship and authentic wok cooking, though they do require a bit more understanding to use properly, as with the School of Wok above.

Le Creuset: When You Want Something Special

Cast Iron Wok 36cm (14")

Hand-crafted in northern France - and yes, you can tell the difference. This fuses traditional shape with modern practicality, working on all hob types including those ceramic jobs that seem designed to frustrate.

Now, cast iron has its quirks. It's heavy - properly heavy - so don't expect to be tossing food about like they do in the films. But once it's hot, it stays hot, which is excellent for even cooking.

Toughened Non-Stick 32cm (12.5")

For those who prefer convenience over tradition. The reinforced coating is PFOA-free (which is good) and tough enough for daily use. The deep sides let you move food around quickly whilst retaining flavour and nutrients.

This is your compromise option - easier than traditional but not quite as authentic, as non-stick coatings don’t like high heat cooking (max. 270°C) and to achieve "wok hei" you need to go up to 300°C, which a non-stick coating will not survive!

Samuel Groves Stainless Steel Triply 40cm (15.5")

As used by the chefs on "The Great British Menu" - and they know what they're doing. The 3-ply construction means there's an aluminium core sandwiched between stainless steel layers, giving you quick, even heat distribution.

Why it's good:

• Aluminium core spreads heat evenly (no hot spots burning your garlic)
• Helper handle makes it manageable when full
• Dishwasher safe (though I'd still hand wash)
• Looks rather smart​

Demeyere Apollo 32cm (12.5")

This is the technical marvel of the bunch. 7-ply construction with something called TriplInduc, a 3-ply combination of different stainless steels, that are magnetic and heat up incredibly quickly. The handles stay cool, and the Silvinox treatment resists marking and corrosion like no other.

Made of just the correct thickness to allow searing temperatures in the base gradually moving to coolish near the top of the sides.

It's not cheap, but if you want the best heat distribution money can buy, this is it.

Size Matters: Choosing the Right Dimensions

Small Woks: 10.5"-12" (26.5-30cm)

The 10.5" (26.5cm) School of Wok is ideal if you're cooking for one or two. Takes up minimal space in the cupboard and handles individual portions beautifully.

The 12" (30cm) options work for 2-3 people and are probably the sweet spot for most small families. Large enough to cook properly without everything being cramped together.

Medium Woks: 32cm (12.5")

Our Samuel Groves, Demeyere, and Le Creuset 32cm models serve 3-4 people comfortably. This size gives you proper cooking space without being unwieldy on most domestic hobs.

Large Woks: 36cm (14") and 16" (40.5cm)

The Le Creuset 36cm handles 4-6 people and is brilliant for entertaining. The School of Wok 16" (40.5cm) is for serious cooking - 6-8 people or when you're batch-cooking for the week.

Just make sure you've got adequate cupboard space and a hob powerful enough to heat them properly, ideally a proper “wok burner”.

Flat Bottom vs Round Bottom: A Brief Reality Check

Traditionally, woks have round bottoms. They sit in special burners and get blasted with flame from all sides. Lovely if you've got a proper Chinese kitchen setup.

For the rest of us with normal domestic hobs, flat-bottomed woks make infinitely more sense. All our featured woks have flat bottoms because for most of us with ordinary domestic hobs, a wok burner is just a pipe dream.

They work on electric, induction, gas, and those glass-top things that look elegant but seem designed to make cooking more difficult than it needs to be.

The Pre-Seasoning Advantage

Here's where I think we've been rather clever. Most carbon steel woks come unseasoned, which means you've got to do the initial seasoning yourself. This involves heating the thing until it smokes like a steam engine, applying oil, more heating, more oil... it's a right performance.

Our School of Wok range comes pre-seasoned. As we say, "no need to season at home, the hard part is done for you!" This gives you what I call a semi non-stick surface right from the start - an excellent compromise between traditional and modern convenience.

Unlike non-stick coatings that wear out and disappoint you, a properly maintained seasoned surface actually gets better with use. The more you cook, the more non-stick it becomes. So long as you clean it accordingly (see below).

Looking After Your Investment

Carbon Steel (School of Wok)

• Hand wash only – too much soap and / or elbow grease strips the seasoning. Or just wipe with kitchen towel if there’s little or no food residue.
• Dry thoroughly to prevent rust
• Light oil coating after each use until you’ve used it quite a bit
• The more you use it, the better it gets

Stainless Steel (Samuel Groves, Demeyere)

• Dishwasher safe, though hand washing is kinder
• No seasoning required
• Use appropriate cleaning products
• Generally bombproof

Le Creuset Options

• Cast iron: hand wash, no seasoning needed due to enamel
• Non-stick: hand wash to preserve coating, avoid metal utensils and high heat

Cooking Techniques: Getting It Right

Achieving Proper Wok Hei

That smoky flavour isn't magic - it's technique. You need high heat (but NOT Le Creuset’s TNS or any other non-stick coated wok), the right equipment, and proper timing. Our carbon steel options excel here because they heat quickly and respond fast to temperature changes. As do stainless steel ones, particularly the Demeyere Apollo wok.

Temperature Control

This is where many people go wrong. Carbon steel heats quickly to very high temperatures - ideal for traditional stir-frying. Stainless steel heats more gradually but distributes heat evenly, preventing those annoying hot spots that burn your garlic before the rest of the dish is ready.

The Tossing Motion

Traditional wok cooking involves keeping everything moving. The lighter School of Wok models make this easier, whilst heavier options like cast iron are better for steady, contained cooking.

Our Recommendations

For Beginners: School of Wok 12" (30cm) Pre-Seasoned

No intimidating seasoning process, ready to use immediately, and based on Jeremy Pang's considerable expertise.

For Gas Cooker Owners: School of Wok 10.5" or 12"

Authentic carbon steel performance with pre-seasoned convenience. The bamboo handles stay cool whilst you're flinging vegetables about.

For Professional Results: Samuel Groves 32cm

Used by television chefs, offering restaurant-quality results with home kitchen practicality.

For the Technically Minded: Demeyere Apollo 32cm

7-ply construction for absolutely even heating. Not cheap, but possibly the best heat distribution available.

For Cast Iron Enthusiasts: Le Creuset 36cm

French craftsmanship, iconic colours, and heat retention that's second to none.

For Easy Life: Le Creuset Non-Stick 32cm

PFOA-free coating, minimal oil needed, easy cleanup. Not traditional, but undeniably convenient. Has its limitations as with all Non-stick coatings, which are damaged by high heat, above 270°C

Beyond Stir-Frying

Don't limit yourself to stir-fries. These woks excel at deep-frying (curved shape uses less oil), steaming (with a rack), and braising. The School of Wok and Netherton ranges particularly suits deep-frying, whilst the stainless steel options handle longer cooking methods brilliantly, but are more of a challenge to clean afterwards.

Value and Investment

Our School of Wok range starts at £25.60 - remarkable value considering you get professional-level performance and Jeremy Pang's expertise. The stainless steel options cost more but offer restaurant-quality results with minimal fuss. Le Creuset and Demeyere are investment pieces that'll last decades with proper care.

Final Thoughts

Your choice depends on your cooking style, maintenance tolerance, and budget. The School of Wok range offers the best entry point - authentic carbon steel with pre-seasoned convenience, as does Netherton.

Our stainless steel options provide professional performance without the faffing about of maintaining the seasoning. And are dishwasher safe, if your dishwasher is big enough.

Remember, a properly seasoned carbon steel surface has no coating to wear out or disappoint you. Unlike non-stick pans that promise the world then start sticking after six months, a well-maintained wok actually improves with age.

Whether you choose traditional carbon steel or modern stainless steel, master the fundamentals and you'll soon understand why the wok has barely changed in two millennia - because when something works this well, why mess about with it?

I trust you have a pleasant and peaceful weekend.

Warm regards,

Andrew